Automotive Paint Problems and Solutions: Filling Holes in Car | Sanding Single Stage | and More Q&A

In this blog post, I answered some automotive paint problems from our VIPs. This includes filling holes in car bodies, sanding single-stage paint jobs, and other frequently asked questions related to automotive painting. So if you are interested in learning how to resolve some of the common painting issues yourself, read on! Don’t forget to sign-up for to Learn Auto Body and Paint FREE COURSE for the step-by-step bodywork of “The G.O.O.D. Van Project” and more custom auto bodywork and paintPlease also LIKE and SUBSCRIBE to my YT channel for new videos coming out soon. And if you want to learn how to make money with E-Commerce subscribe now to this link: https://ecomdomination.tonybrichie.com/

QUESTION: ​I have a friend that removed his front license plate bracket and wants to cover the holes. How would you cover them?

If it’s in the metal you could just use body filler or fiberglass. Undercoat the back side and just fill it, shape it, prime it, and paint it. I would just use body filler for tiny little holes.

QUESTION: What grit should I use on my wheels? They’ve been painted by someone with a single stage and it’s coming off in spots.

It depends on what type of rims you have. If you can get in there with a little DA, you can just scuff off some of that single-stage or try to get most of it off, I would. 

If it’s peeling, maybe it’s not prepped properly underneath the single stage. So you can use something like 150 grit to 180. Get it all down, prime it with a nice 2k filler primer then get it all covered. Then, wet sand it with 400 grit and you’re ready for paint. 

I know it seems like a lot of work but if you want to skip that 150 grit, I would just feather everything out with 400, and see how it goes then you have to prime the feathered areas.

Sometimes you’re cutting through aluminum or steel and you have to prime over sanding through multiple coats of single stage to a primer or to the metal if you have that (definitely you have to prime that area) before you paint it.

QUESTION: Best universal ATOM spray gun?

If you’re a beginner and want a starter spray gun take a look at the Atom X20, either LVLP or HVLP they are good spray guns. 

But if you want a higher end, check out the Atom X27 and the Atom X88. The Atom X88 basically comes with two tip sizes, the most common 1.3 and 1.4 so you could spray with both tip sizes and see how you like it. Both 1.3 and 1.4 tip sizes are good for single-stage paints and base coat clearcoat systems. 

However, if you want to spray a 2k filler primer, you could absolutely do that by thinning it down 10% give or take. spray it with a 1.4 or you can get an upgrade and use a 1.8 tip size if you want to spray mixed primer 2k as it should be sprayed. 

Reducing it, thin it out, you just got to give it a couple of extra coats to fill. That’s all it is and we showed all of that in the learn auto body and paint VIP as well.

This Atom X20 is perfect for newbies. It will simply feel ‘right’ in your hand as you hold it and will allow you to spray anything that you put in front of it with ultra-fine atomization and performance.
The ATOM-X88 Infinity spray gun is a two-tip size combo package, so you get both of the most used tip sizes for painting. The 1.3 and 1.4 tips are included in the box for you.
They say the best paint jobs are “one big run”. The ATOM X27 will lay your clear on so glossy it will look like glass, or more like water glistening off a dolphin’s back.

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