How To Paint Cars – (Questions & Answers) on LearnAutoBodyAndPaint

Hey Gang!

In this post I want you to post your most burning how to paint cars question. I have been getting a ton of email from my subscribers to do more whiteboard style teachings of how to paint a car.

You see, automotive painting need not be difficult. In fact it’s really easy once you understand the concept.

Yes I will agree with you… There are many ways, and techniques that people use to do auto body repair. Some professional auto body men will tell you to paint one way and another will say to do something else. You know like, mixing car paint.

Auto Body Restoration
Auto Body Restoration

Like I say, there are many ways to skin a cat and with that being said… there are many ways to do body work and to paint a car. What you need to do is pick one person who you think is good at what they do and follow their methods.

That’s really it. Kinda like martial arts.

When learning a certain martial art method you usually study one style of fighting at a time right? Unless it’s mixed martial arts but still, you get what I mean. Otherwise you’ll get confused.

We here at learnautobodyandpaint.com have a LOT of experience in auto body and custom painting. I have been painting cars since I was 15! Now almost 30 with 15 years of experience in the auto body and paint industry. I think that says enough. 🙂

Anyway, all you have to do at this point is post your most burning questions about auto body repair below and we will start making amazing content videos that you can take notes on and learn from. We will start with the most common auto painting questions and work from there.

What are you waiting for? Get typing!

P.S. If you like what you have been seeing here at learnautobodyandpaint.com feel free to see our Exclusive VIP community right here

We literally have a subscriber base of 50,000 people just like you who are enjoying everything we have to offer here on the free blog. So why not take advantage of the hottest auto body training program on the net? You’ll get exclusive access to a vast library of (how to training videos), manuals, audio sessions and more! Take a look at Learn Auto Body VIP here and see what we have in store for you!

Cheers!

39 thoughts on “How To Paint Cars – (Questions & Answers) on LearnAutoBodyAndPaint”

  1. what kind of paints will work together? what is a 2k primer? like is it urethane epoxy acrylic ? what can you lay down together primer type, sealer type, base type, and clear type?

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  2. Hi Tony,
    I am restoring the under body braces that support the floorboards of a 1940 Buick Super 4 door sedan by welding in replacement ends to fix the places that are rusted off. I have 4 replacement sections for the front an rear, left and right section of the floor boards to weld in after I finish the braces. My question is what should I use to prime these floor braces and the places I wire brushed the original parts?
    Power wire brushing seems to get the loose rust off but leave a black layer. A cutting blade digs through this to more rust. The surface seems solid when brushed and there are rust encapsulating paints. These parts are hard to sand completely because of the shape. Thanks much! Bob Baker

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  3. I want to buy your videos so I can use it to upgrade my workers in my new workshop, hw do I get them. Am in nigeria, west afric.a

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  4. After painting a panel with acrylic paint (Not a 2 pack).
    Is it okay to use a cutting paste to get rid of the over-spray and does it affect the finish of the paint

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  5. Hello tony.
    Iam currently enrolled in a collision and paint repair program at a local adult school and want to see if we can talk a little about guns. For the past few months , Ive been using the schools equipment to paint my cars ( Iwata lph 400), but recently used the supernova (ls400) and loved it.. Iam currently in the market to purchase my own base/ clearcoat gun but very indecisive on which one to buy and for what applications. The market is very big and I was hoping you can help explain the differences and what might be the better gun for an application .

    Iwata:

    lph400 – Orange cap/ Purple cap
    ls400
    ls400H / 1.3 1.4 Gold cap/ Platinum cap

    Satajet:

    3000
    4000 Digital/ non digital

    Sharpe:

    Fx3000

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  6. Hi Tony, I have a question about pearls. Is it possible to mix my pearls in a reducer and spray it as a basecoat without mixing it with any laquer? and then cover it with a clearcoat. I think I have read something like this for airbrush paint.

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  7. Hi, again…
    just putting one more on here that I have been wondering about.
    Binder. What i is a binder, what is the purpose of the binder. when do we need to use a binder.

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  8. I’m restoring a 1969 Mercury Cougar and it is ready for paint. Do you know what type of paint was originally used on the car? What type of paint would you recommend using that will look like the original paint from the factory? Were they using clear coats at the factory during that time?

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  9. Hi Tony and team
    would like more info on hamer and Dollie work and other dent removel please would like to use as little filler as possaIble

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  10. hi Tony !
    I have a question……
    I need to buff newly painted car,its got 1 coat of paint and 1 coat of finish ,so my question is:
    how to get rid of the over spraying as it is very bumpy and I also made a couple of runs.
    thanks in advance !!!!!!

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  11. after stripping/sanding all the paint off, is it better to etch prime/filler prime t5hen body work or body work then etch prime then filler prime then more body filler if needed ?

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  12. hi tony…
    painting is ma biggest hobby….so i will be trying that in ma home on ma car….but i think i don’t know the proper procedure of painting,…so i want you to help me…and tell the actual procedure of painting…so that i can try it on ma bike,…

    Reply
  13. Hi Tony I’m getting ready to restore a 70 chevelle Convertible the colors i’m going to use are Red Cherry With White SS strips. My question is do i spray the SS white strips first and then the red cherry Thanks

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    • You can do it either way. You can spray the hood with your white base first (what I would do) mask them up. Use fine line tape or a OEM stencil, then spray your cherry red. Unmask, and lay your clear coat. Good luck!!

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  14. Tony do you or anyone on here know about summit racing paint ? I like there gunmetal metallic and Idk who else has it , any ideas how it is and where can u buy DuPont paint online

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    • hey Jake, I don’t fully understand your question. You like a certain color that summit has and want to know if DuPont has it? I would check your local paint shop and see if they can make the same color that you are looking for… You can basically make ANY color you desire.

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  15. I have a 67 Chevelle that a rear Quarter replaced about 15 years ago brozne welded and then leaded over the paint is now lifting along the seam what can I do to prevent this from happening again

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    • Stanley, I would grind the led out, and fill it with bondo hair or kitty hair and refinish it. It’s basically a bondo with fiberglass in it. Then you can prime, refinish and paint it. Good luck.

      Reply
  16. Tony I just found your site and will be buying your dvd. What is best way to remove pitted rust ? Should I use sand paper or disc or grinding wheel ? Also please tell me exactly what grits etc ? I am a total beginner and I need great advice as you are showing .
    Thanks Bob from Ohio

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  17. Hi tony can you please tell me if i lay black metal flake over a white basecoat eill you still be able to still see the white basecoat
    Kind regards Paul Wallace

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  18. My 2005 Prius had a lot of stone chips (not 3-4, 25 – 50), some 1 mm or less, some larger chips, and scratches, on the hood, with some small rust specs. I figure the car is too old to be worth getting the panel professionally repainted, but the problems too extensive to touch up with a paint pen. So I have sanded all of the damaged areas. There are probably 20 + places where this took me down to bare metal, 1 mm diameter spots at the smallest and 1 sq. centimeter of bare metal at the largest. Everything is sanded and compounded very smooth now, but of course the areas that needed the most sanding are lower than the areas I barely touched. First question is can I just spray primer over everything, thus covering the bare metal but also spraying over lightly sanded clear coat in some places? Then just add color and clear and quit? But at minimum that will leave the level uneven, I guess – does it really matter that much? If that’s a bad idea, do I have to now sand the entire panel to bare metal and start from scratch with primer? Or could I block off as much of the clear coat as feasible and start covering the bare metal with primer, using a spray can for larger areas and toothpick / mini brush dabs for areas smaller than the size of a pencil eraser? Second question is, if I can avoid having to sand down everything down to bare metal, what’s the best way to build up the level of areas that are just slightly lower due to absence of clear coat, color and primer, so that they are pretty even in height with the original finish? These are not dents, for the most part, just dings, and to my eye I don’t even see the difference in level, but know it must be there. Do I use multiple coats of each (primer, color and clear) with other areas masked, using spray for larger areas and toothpick / mini brush dabs for smaller areas, applying coats until I have it leveled? My goal is not a perfect car. My goal is that the hood panel looks as good as the other car panels, without spending money or the next 6 months of weekends. The rest of the car exterior is 15 years old but without significant damage. Car is unlikely to last more than 2 – 5 more years from now. I have a touch-up kit with a can of primer, one of matching color and one of clear coat, and also have a touch up pen I could use on the very small dings. I don’t think this site enables uploading photos. If there is a better place to post this, send me a link. Thanks.

    Reply
  19. In base/clear systems is it necessary to use hardener in the base? It seems sanding any runs or flaws in the base before clearing would be much easier/quicker without hardener, but maybe it is necessary for max shine. Clear is the top coat and hardener in it could be sufficient. I am a 78 year old lacquer painter who switched from an old Binks #7 to HVLP and painted only 2 cars the new way.

    Reply

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