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Hey, itβs Tony from LearnAutoBodyAndPaint with another Q&A series. Todayβs topic is all about Custom Paint – Two Tone Paint Edge Ideas.
Hereβs the question:
βHey Tony, great new format. Loved the latest video you did in this format and also really enjoy your live sessions.
Before I ask you two questions, let me thank you, as your videos and instructions are simply awesome and above all the others. After watching countless hours of your videos, covering every topic, I could imagine I had the confidence to try it on my own.
The cheapest price to paint a big bike like mine is $3800 dollars and I aint about that for sure, and that’s a single color.
Now I did over spend and needed a lot of stuff. I spent about $1000 in sand papers, fillers, electric random orbit sanders, tape spray booth rental (100/day), 3 colors of paints, clear coat, reducers etcetera.
I had a few issues like reading mix ratios wrong but still very pleased with first attempt. I made a few errors but know from your teachings how to not make those mistakes next time.
Question 1 – A ridge line in a two tone paint job. On my bike I went with a coat of silver then taped my line seen in the picture attached.
Then, after taping my silver line I painted the lower part a gray black and the top part I marbled with your plastic wrap technique, then shot 6 coats of candy to get the deeper darker wine color on the top half.
Six coats of candy is very thick amount of paint next to the silver and I don’t like that. Even the lower under the silver which is a greasy black color is only 2 coats thick but still is much thicker than my silver base coat.
I feel like I should have re-taped the black and the wine colors and re-shot the silver again until the thickness match closer. I hope you can offer what is the correct way for me to achieve this on my next attempt.β
What I would do now is actually flow coating. Six coats of candy is a lot, you probably could’ve got the same effect with 3 to 4 coats. As for the silver, what you could do is block it down with 800- grit and get it flat. Be careful it goes slow and not cut too much.
What you could do is lay an additional 2 coats of heavy clear on top of it which is called flow coat. That’s supposed to tighten up the gapping and peeling of your different multiple colors of your paint.
You cut it down with 800-grit and smoothen out these areas and cut in here with your 800-grit. Get it as smooth as you can. It looks pretty cool by the way.
Then, put 2 coats of clear on it, and cut it down with 1500-grit down to 2500-grit which will dramatically help you reduce the hard line that you feel.
βQuestion 2 – Single Stage vs Base Coat Clear Coat – I loved the base coat clear coat method from your training but don’t like the fact that the base coat can’t be sanded before clear coat.
It seems to me, my runs or mistakes could be better reserved with sanding on single stage before clear. Any sanding to BC/CC system will create a different color.
Such as gloss black will turn dull black if you sand it at all before clear coat. End result, the above 2 problems exist on my bike. I am still super happy with my results but I know they can definitely be improved upon with your expertise on my issues. Thanks in advance.β
If you do sand and fixed base coat, you need to put more base coat on it to cover it, then put your clear coat over it.
It’s very hard to screw up on base coat and never ever had a run with basecoat. You’re not supposed to lay it that thick. Base coat is just supposed to get the color on. It’s supposed to dry flat.
You’re not supposed to have orange peel. And, if you do, cut that orange peel down by sanding it out with 600 or 400-grit and get it flat again.
Then, reduce your base coat down a little bit more by adding 10% to 15% reducer. Then spray it on to get the color and make sure it’s flat. You always want to have freshly sprayed base coat before you put your clear coat.
Donβt sand your base coat and then put your clear coat on it. It will not come out right.
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Talk soon! Cheers!
Tony
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