Your bodywork and paint need to be as smooth as possible and so your paint will last much longer if you cut and buff the bodywork correctly first, but what grit should you use? Read this post on how to properly cut and buff, and also on how to tack and prep your car for paint. Learn also on how to paint two-stage and a lot more. Don’t forget to sign-up for to Learn Auto Body and Paint FREE COURSE for the step-by-step autobody work/process of “The G.O.O.D. Van Project” and more custom autobody work and paint. Please also LIKE and SUBSCRIBE to my YT channel for new videos coming out soon. And if you want to learn how to make money with E-Commerce subscribe now to this link: https://ecomdomination.tonybrichie.com/
QUESTION: What’s the best way to cut and buff 2-stage paint? Paper grit? Compound type, etc.?
The first thing I’m going to tell you to do is to go here to grab your FREE Autobody training. It’s going to be like an 85-page downloadable PDF.
As you scan through it, it’s full of pictures and videos, and you can click color sanding and buffing. Then it’ll take you to a video on Learnautobodyandpaint.com that shows you the step-by-step process on that so that’s going to help you out a lot.
Basically, you’re going to be cutting down with 1000 grit, maybe 1200 depending on the situation if you have a lot of orange peel or not.
Then you could kind of go down to 1500 grit – 2000 grit, or you can buff over 2500 grit as well.
If you’re doing darker colors, you may want to sand down to 3000 and then do your buffing. So all that compound types that I talked about in the training.
QUESTION: I’m getting ready to primer and shoot my 85 Brat. There is some bare metal, do I need to epoxy primer, or is 2k ok?
It depends if you have a lot of bare metal I would epoxy but a little bit, like a phone size, or if you’re sanding a hood and you got like little corners of metal 2k fluid primers are okay.
Epoxy -if there’s a lot of raw metal. A palm size or a hand size of metal you could just put some 2k over it, and you’ll be fine. You’re not going to have an issue with that.
QUESTION: What are your thoughts on spraying a tack coat on clear vs just getting after it? so 1 tack coat wet vs 2 full wet?
Two wet coats save a lot of time. It saves one trip around the car doing your tack coat and I changed then I have just been sticking with two medium wet coats forever. Just lay it on, don’t worry about the tack coat, you don’t need a tack coat.
The only time I think you need a tack coat is if you feel you might have a chemical reaction and you want to check it. So doing a tack coat to check for a chemical reaction say you were shooting a panel prior and you had a chemical reaction on the panel and you had to resend it, redo it right and you’re ready to paint it again. It’s cleaned, it’s wiped off, it’s wax and grease removed, or use glass cleaner you tacked, and it’s ready to go again.
Then I would do a tack coat of my base coat or clear coat just to see how it lays on. Because usually if you do a tack coat, you’ll be able to see that it’s kind of separating over here something then you would just keep lightly tacking that area until it covers and then lay it on heavy. That’s the only time I would really do a tack coat but I’m not really unless you’re doing blending. Blending is kind of different, you’re going to be doing some tack coats during the blending phase.
QUESTION: What is a really good clear to use?
A lot of clear coats are good. I like the ACME Finish product. It’s a good cheap clearcoat – it’s 100 bucks per gallon. It doesn’t have a tinge to it. House of Color has a good premium clearcoat that I like. The PPG, Deltron Series has nice clearcoats that I like.
Also, Dupont and Sherman Williams make nice clearcoats. They are all pretty good. Just be careful if you’re going to buy cheap ones because some of those tend to have like yellow tint to it.
QUESTION: I painted my Willys wagon with a single stage, I’m not happy with it so I’m going to respray it with 2-stage Trinity Starfire to keep the same color. Any tips?
That’s fine and you can spray your basecoat right on top of that single-stage. So your single-stage is a good foundation to accept new paint so you could just get that flat, sand it down with 400 grit.
Get all the orange peel paint texture taken out then you could basically put your base coat clear coat on top of that, you don’t have to prime it.
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More DIY Auto body Videos to Watch:
🚘 The Basics: Auto Body And Paint Your Car Yourself Without Spending $1,000s: https://youtu.be/T11x2Jht5fQ
🚘 Proven DIY BODYWORK Tricks – Easily Body Work & Paint Your Car at Home! Part 2: https://youtu.be/1JYQpsLEPr4
🚘 How To Spray 2k Filler Primer and Apply Glaze Putty Before Single-Stage PAINT!: https://youtu.be/WEfo3rdZYRk
🚘 How To SPRAY Raw Plastic, Aluminum, and Steel Car Parts (Single Stage BOSS BLACK):
https://youtu.be/xHMyWUGGyO4
🚘 How To SPRAY PAINT Like a PRO! Even With a CRAP GUN! (Plus Much More): https://youtu.be/nVP95645uo0
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