Know how to properly set up your air compressor for your spray painting job to ensure a successful project. I have a few tips in this blog post that you might want to take note of. Don’t forget to sign-up for to Learn Auto Body and Paint FREE COURSE for the step-by-step auto bodywork/process of “The G.O.O.D. Van Project” and more custom auto bodywork and paint. Please also LIKE and SUBSCRIBE to my YT channel for new videos coming out soon. And if you want to learn how to make money with E-Commerce subscribe now to this link: https://ecomdomination.tonybrichie.com/
QUESTION: How much air should be at the regulator close to the air compressor? I have a 20-ft hose to the regulator and I have 50-ft to my gun.
I have 20 feet of hose to the regulator and 50 feet to my gun. From your air compressor to your initial gauge (your water trap gauge), I like to have at least 80 pounds coming out of it. So your compressor kicks typically off at 140 to 160 minus set at 150, it kicks off at 150 PSI.
From there I have a hose going to my dryer, my water filter, and my Ingersoll Rand water separator about 10 feet of hose away. Then from that, I have 80 pounds of air pressure constant to my gun, and from my gun, I have wide open and this is exactly what we cover in the RADS Paint System. (All of this is in detail. I even show you painting everything it’s you guys gonna like it. It might be a good refresher for you).
So you set your gun – always leave your airflow wide open no matter what type of gun you’re using. You could be using these guns – the ATOMS (perfect for any spray painting jobs), you could be using whatever gun you like. Sometimes the air regulator is at the bottom and sometimes at the top depending on the gun. Wide open always, you’re going to be adjusting your air through your regulator that connects to your gun.
QUESTION: I bought an RSX type S – all original, but there are so many little dings, especially on the passenger side. I need to get it clean, I was thinking of pushing out as much as I can – body filler?
Just take your time and go panel by panel. If your dings are very shallow, you can use polyester primer but I don’t like that, it will really cake the paint out of your gun. Do not use a 1.3 or 1.4 tip and reduce. You gonna have to use a 2.0 tip if you’re going to spray that stuff. I don’t like it as it’s too thick.
I would rather get my body work done, sanded flat with 80 grit, 150 grit, and use a good 2k filler primer. Polyester – I’ve tried it a few times, it’s not my deal. You can do body work without it, but if you guys want to test it out and try it – do it.
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More DIY Auto body Videos to Watch:
The Basics: Auto Body And Paint Your Car Yourself Without Spending $1,000s:
https://youtu.be/T11x2Jht5fQ
Proven DIY BODYWORK Tricks – Easily Body Work & Paint Your Car at Home! Part 2:
https://youtu.be/1JYQpsLEPr4
How To Spray 2k Filler Primer and Apply Glaze Putty Before Single-Stage!:
https://youtu.be/WEfo3rdZYRk
How To SPRAY Raw Plastic, Aluminum, and Steel Car Parts (Single Stage BOSS BLACK):
https://youtu.be/xHMyWUGGyO4
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